How to manage the practicalities of shooting film photography
Using analogue cameras requires a different approach to planning and technical execution than digital photography.
Digital sensors provide instant feedback, allowing for immediate corrections when a shot goes wrong. Film does not work this way. When a frame is captured on a roll of 35mm or 120 film, the result remains unknown until the roll is finished and processed. This lack of instant gratification introduces a specific set of technical challenges that can lead to wasted money and lost opportunities if not managed carefully.
Managing light and exposure settings
The most common issue with film is incorrect exposure. Digital cameras are excellent at compensating for light levels, but film reacts differently to different types of light. Most colour negative films are forgiving if you overexpose them slightly, meaning you provide more light than the camera technically requires. However, underexposing film often results in grainy, muddy shadows that cannot be recovered during the scanning or printing process.
When using a light meter, it is wise to be cautious. If the meter suggests an exposure that feels borderline, it is usually safer to increase the exposure by one stop. This practice ensures that the shadows retain detail. If the camera does not have a built-in meter, using a handheld device or a smartphone application can provide a more reliable reading.
Be aware that different film stocks have different characteristics. Some films are designed to handle high contrast, while others struggle in bright sunlight. Before heading out on a photo walk, check the specific recommendations for the film being used. Knowing whether a film is "pushable" or "pullable" is essential. Pushing film means underexposing it and then increasing the development time to compensate, which increases grain. Pulling film involves overexposing it and reducing development time to manage contrast.
The importance of mechanical reliability
Unlike digital cameras, many film cameras rely on mechanical parts that can fail due to age, dust, or lack of use. A camera that has sat in a cupboard for several years might have seized shutters or light seals that have perished and become sticky. If the light seals on a camera body are degraded, light can leak into the film chamber, creating orange streaks or patches across the images.
Before committing to a full roll of expensive film, it is sensible to test the camera. Check that the shutter speeds sound consistent and that the film advance mechanism moves smoothly. If the camera has a battery for the light meter, ensure it is fresh, as a dying battery can lead to inaccurate readings.
Always check the film advance lever or button. If it feels stuck or requires excessive force, stop immediately. Forcing the mechanism can break the gears, turning a repairable issue into a permanent failure. If a camera shows signs of light leaks, it is often possible to replace the foam seals using kits available online, but this requires patience and a steady hand.
Handling film and preventing damage
The physical handling of film is just as important as the settings on the camera. When loading a roll of 35mm film, ensure the canister is seated correctly in the chamber and that the film leader is properly engaged with the take-up spool. A common mistake is failing to ensure the film is wrapped around the spool, which results in the camera advancing the empty canister instead of the film.
Once the roll is finished, the rewind process must be handled with care. Most manual cameras require the user to manually rewind the film back into the canister using a rewind crank. If the rewind is interrupted, the film can become tangled or scratched.
When storing film, keep it away from heat and strong magnetic fields. High temperatures can affect the chemical stability of the emulsion, leading to colour shifts or increased grain. If you are travelling through different climates, try to keep your film in a stable, cool environment. If you live in a particularly warm region, some photographers choose to store their unused film in a refrigerator, provided they allow it to reach room temperature before use to prevent condensation from forming inside the canister.
Planning the workflow and costs
Shooting film is a more expensive hobby than digital photography because every shutter press has a direct cost. There is the price of the film itself, the cost of professional developing, and the cost of scanning the negatives into digital files. Because of this, every frame carries more weight.
A successful film session requires more pre-planning. Instead of walking aimenderlessly, decide on a theme or a specific location. This helps prevent the habit of "spraying and praying," where a photographer takes dozens of shots in the hope that one will be good. Instead, take the time to compose the shot, check the light, and ensure the focus is sharp before pressing the shutter.
Always account for the time it takes to get your results. Depending on where you live, you may need to mail your film to a specialist lab or wait several days for a local shop to process it. Knowing your local lab's turnaround times and their specific requirements for film types will prevent frustration.
Things to try this week
- Test an old camera by loading a single roll and checking for light leaks or shutter issues.
- Practise manual exposure by using a light meter app to determine the correct settings for a scene.
- Research local film processing labs to find out which types of film they can develop and how long it takes.
- Spend a walk focusing on composition rather than quantity, aiming to take fewer than twenty shots.
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